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 Sunday Times, April 8, 2010
Miller's Residence, London W2Ginny Light would happily have become part of the furniture at this quirky west London B&BBehind a pillar box red door just off the fully gentrified, and now rather chi chi Westbourne Grove, is an extraordinary little B&B. Stepping into another world is no exaggeration for crossing the threshold of this west London bolt hole. It’s sensory overload of colour, clutter and Willie Wonka meets Antiques Roadshow. Huge suitcases are best left by the door - climb the winding staircase to reception on the first floor and you could take out a handful of antiquities before you’ve even picked up your room key. The hotel is the extraordinary vision of Martin Miller, of eponymous antique guide fame. Looking around, one could imagine that every item catalogued in his encyclopaedic guides is stuffed on a shelf or secreted in a closet somewhere in this jumbled four-floor property. Martin was there to greet us when we checked in, as he does many guests. Bags whisked upstairs, we found ourselves, martini in hand, at what felt very much like a cocktail party in the drawing room. We’d lucked out by booking a Tuesday night, and were invited to join the weekly gin tasting and martini making masterclass. Martin’s other business is Martin Miller’s Gin, an award winning spirit that was being mixed with dexterity and charisma by Martin’s right-hand gin man, Craig Harper. In a hotel as eccentric as this it’s somehow less surprising to find oneself slurping a 1920s-style martini and discussing vermouth with complete strangers. The classes are held in the drawing room, the hotel’s stunning showpiece. There are windows on two sides of the corner building, but the view outside is of little distraction – the room is stuffed floor to ceiling with antiques. One can barely take in the colours, textures and oddities in one sweep – instead ones is forced to focus on the little details – a cabinet of china mushrooms, a disembodied bust of a woman staring up from a porcelain wash basin, a collection of elaborate glass paperweights sat in lurid ashtrays, a hundred or more watercolours, sketches and oils in gilt frames fixed nose to tail on the wall and countless leather-bound books stacked every which way on every inch of shelf space. When we first walked in I was worried about stepping on a toe, or inadvertently sitting on someone’s lap – with so many colours and textures, anybody could disappear into the background. The gin evening was great fun and educational, but even if you don’t visit on a Tuesday, Martin operates a free bar, so most guests start the evening with an aperitif in the drawing room. Many end it there too, glass in hand in front of the open fire – “you can sleep on the sofas if you can’t be bothered to go upstairs at the end of the night” Martin said to us, in all seriousness. The room has certainly seen some legendary shindigs. Martin used to promote the B&B by hosting Monday night house parties for all-comers. You get the impression from his patter that he still loves a good party now. The bedrooms at the hotel are slightly less cluttered, but no less unconventional. They are named after romantic poets, rather than numbered, and each room has a door daubed in a lurid mural, so it’s easy to remember where one is sleeping. Our room on the third floor had scarlet walls covered in yet more framed artworks of landscapes, wildlife and lots of racehorses. A huge pair huge silver ornate candlesticks sat on an elaborately carved wooden chest and two elegant Oriental table lamps stood on each bedside table. There was a TV, DVD player, iPod dock, free wireless internet access, double glazing to keep out the noise from the street, bowl of fruit, bottled water, Ren toiletries, bath and shower, silky soft cotton sheets and iron available on request. The hotel doesn’t do dinner but there’s every cuisine imaginable within a few minute’s walk or taxi ride, and a comprehensive restaurant guide in every room. I'd recommend Taquiera for a cheap and innovative Mexican street food, or there's the excellent Brazilian barbeque restaurant, Rodizio Rico, next door. When we left the room the following morning, I felt sure I would leave something behind – that any of my belongings could just be absorbed into the fixtures and fittings. Three room sweeps later and we went down for breakfast. The table in the drawing room was now clear of martini glasses and laid out with elegant china for a continental breakfast (served until at least 10.30am). Croissant, pain au chocolat, French bread, cereals, yoghurt, fruit salad, juices and teas and coffees, much of it organic, satisfied our hunger. We chatted with fellow guests, something one would rarely do over breakfast in a chain hotel, and all too soon it was time to leave. What we really wanted to do though, was settle in with a newspaper by the fire and become part of the furniture. I’m sure no one would have noticed... Miller's has an impressive average rating of 4.5/5 on Tripadvisor.co.uk with users widely praising its decor and informal service. The only complaints concern the size of the rooms and the number of stairs you must climb, but I'd happily trade these drawbacks for the uniqueness of the place. Bottom line: Rooms from £155 plus VAT including breakfast, newspaper, evening drinks, local phone calls, wifi and tea and coffee all day Need to know: Miller's Residence, 111A Westbourne Grove, London W2 4UW; tel. 020 7243 1024; www.millershotel.com Worst thing: climbing the stairs with heavy bags Best thing: the decor and free drinks Access all areas: Miller's is not wheelchair accessible owing to the age of the building Food: 8/10 (breakfast only) Room: 9/10 Service: 9/10 Value: 9/10 Score: 8.75
by Ginny Light
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